Budapest: The Better Prague

As you may know, Prague was not our favorite destination, and probably one of the few that was a bit disappointing. Having heard from friends that Budapest was awesome, we decided to give it a shot. And it definitely did not let us down; one of our favorite big city destinations to date. It was what I imagine Prague was like 15-20 years ago: super cheap, chill, not overly touristy, and most importantly, NOT full of smoke and bachelor parties. A wonderful weekend spent with friends {poor Michelle was stuck in Paris studying} in a wonderful city.

A Day Trip to Amiens

After my recent Rouen trip, I decided it was time to start exploring other little towns in France. When Lillian mentioned she had been wanting to see Amiens, and I found train tickets for 10E each way, we decided to make a girls' day trip out of it. To top it off, there was a Christmas market and a light show on the cathedral while we were there.

Friendsgiving!

We may be in France, but we couldn't let Thanksgiving go by without celebrating! Our friends, Lindsey and Justin, hosted a lovely Friendsgiving this past weekend full of laughter, friends, and of course, delicious food!

Fall Recap

It's hard to believe it's December! It seems like the fall has just flown by, and I haven't done a very good job of writing posts of the fun things I've been doing in Paris, so it's time for a quick recap!

Normandy: More Than Just D-Day Beaches

Just a few short days after returning from Portugal, we were off again! This time to Rouen in the Normandy region of France. Nick had a work training there for a few days, so I decided to tag along. I'm so glad I did; Rouen is a very charming city, and we were able to take some time to see the Cliffs of Etretat while we were in the area.

6 Reasons Why You Should Visit Porto, Portugal

Last weekend we made our own "long holiday weekend" when we found cheap flights to Porto, Portugal. Having heard great things about Portugal from many friends, including Lillian who is Portuguese, we decided we had to check it out for ourselves. Many people choose Lisbon for their first visit to Portugal, but I am so glad we went with Porto. Although the weather was not as warm and sunny as you might think {in fact, Porto is typically very foggy and rainy}, it didn't stop us from having a great time. As I was describing to my French teacher what we were going to be doing in Porto, which included a food tour, she kept telling me that in French it would be called a sejour gastronomique. I kept trying to tell her no, it's just a 3 hour tour because sejour gastronomique actually translates to a gastronomic visit or stay. But, in fact, it turns out she was right; it definitely was a sejour gastronomique--a weekend that focused around walking, eating, and drinking!

A Cocktail Class...at the Packer Bar!

This past week I took my first ever cocktail class. Set up by the American Women's Group, it was an afternoon full of laughs, learning, and of course cocktails!

A Holiday Weekend...in Paris!

Last weekend was a four day weekend {well, if you faire du pont, or make the bridge, with 1 vacation day like Nick did}, and believe it or not, we didn't go anywhere! Instead, we decided to stay in Paris and take advantage of some much needed relaxation time.

Le Chocolat Chaud

I've been unofficially on the quest for the best hot chocolate in Paris since I moved here. Many people say the famous Angelina is the best, but I had to see for myself.

Let's just say, this is no American-watery hot chocolate.  It's real honest-to-goodness thick hot chocolate. Needless to say this taste test covered the span of three winters, and I'm so glad I've had so many wonderful friends willing to visit these places with me.

**The lack of and poor quality of these photos is due to my lack of planning and iPhone use.  I really should just start carrying our nice camera around!** Listed in order of tasting!

My scales (completely made up, by the way):
Taste: 1-10, with 10 being extremely sweet and 1 being not sweet at all
Overall rating: 1-10, with 10 being the best (I'd definitely go back), 5 being average (I'd maybe go back), and 1 being the worst (you couldn't pay me to go back!)

Angelina

Price: 8.20, but it does include a pot with a refill

Consistency:  THICK, extremely thick

Taste: 4, it's extremely rich but not super sweet

Atmosphere: Average. I went to the Luxembourg Garden location,

which I think it probably less impressive than the main location

Overall rating: 5--I was not super impressed with this hot chocolate,

given all the hype

Un Dimanche a Paris

Price: 8, included pot with refills

Consistency: Thick and creamy

Taste: 6, slightly sweet, but not overpowered

Atmosphere:  Quaint and cozy, tucked away in a little
alley-way in St. Germain. Perfect for a cold rainy, day!

Overall rating: 7, a pretty decent choice overall!

Cafe de Flore

Price: 7.20

Consistency: Thin, yet creamy

Taste: 9, the perfect combination of richness and sweetness!

Atmosphere: Ok, so this is a super touristy cafe because all the famous authors
hung out here (Hemingway, etc.) but I still loved the atmosphere!
Very quaint and feels like a step back in time!

Overall rating: 10

Jean-Paul Hevin

I actually went here twice--the first time I ordered a marron (chestnut) flavored hot chocolate, I would not recommend it. The second time I stuck with the original which was much better and is the only one I'll be talking about here!

Price: 7,90

Consistency:  Fairly thick (but not too thick!) and creamy

Taste: 7

Atmosphere: Cozy and modern. I went to the location on rue Saint Honore,
which is a pretty fancy area so it gives you some good people watching chances too!

Overall rating: 8, another solid choice!

Le Bristol

Price: 12, but for everything you get this is quite a deal!

Consistency: Creamy and thick, but they give you milk to dilute, if you wish

Taste: 8, another perfect combo of sweetness & richness

Atmosphere: Extravagant and a great way to experience
a 5* hotel at a fraction of the price!

Overall rating: 9, I'd happily go back here!
Ok, so the free homemade pastries were a pretty big bonus too!

Mamie Gateaux

Price: 4,50

Consistency: Thin, yet creamy

Taste: 9, one of my favorites!

Atmosphere: Cute & homey, feels like a French Grandma's kitchen
You drink the hot chocolate out a stone bowl!

Overall rating: 9, I'd definitely go back! Great lunch veggie dishes, as well!

So for me the winners are Cafe de Flore and Mamie Gateaux. Can't beat the flavor and price combos!

Vélib' Vendredi: Butte aux Cailles

So, I have a confession to make, this Vélib' Vendredi didn't actually involve a Vélib'. Maybe these posts should be called something like Exploring Fridays instead. Oh well, regardless, it's made me get out more and see new parts of the city. This week, I visited the neighborhood of Butte aux Cailles, which is in the southern part of Paris.

Gran Canaria: A Week en la Playa

If you know me, then you know I love the beach. I was getting a little sad, not having had a beach vacation this summer {or at all this year}, so when Michelle mentioned she had a week off from her grad program, we immediately went to work to find a beach that would still be warm in October. When we found cheap, direct flights to Gran Canaria, our decision was made...a week in the sun and at the beach. The Canary Islands are just off the coast of Morocco/Western Sahara, and we didn't really know what to expect other than that it's a well known beach destination for Europeans. Definitely one of the most relaxing vacations we've had in Europe.

Vélib' Vendredi: the 10th

After our summer-like September, fall/winter is officially back in Paris, which meant that this entire week called for rain and cooler temps. So when I got called to sub for a class on Monday, and it wasn't raining, I decided to head out a little early for my weekly bike ride. {Of course, it rained on me by the end, and ended up being sunny toward the end of the week, but I guess I should be used to incompetent weather forecasters by now.}

Nuit Blanche

Nuit Blanche, "White Night", is an annual event, where numerous art installations are set up all over the city. Many buildings and bridges are lit for most of the night. Last year we were out of town during this weekend, so this year I wanted to be sure to hit up some of the sites, which started around 8pm and lasted into the wee hours of the morning. What a great view to start off the night, huh? Thanks Bobbie & Ray!

One Month, Four Goodbyes

This past month as been a sad one. We said goodbye to not one, not even two, but four different couples this month! This is an inevitable part of ex-pat life, but it doesn't make it any easier, especially when so many leave all at once!

Vélib' Vendredi: My 'Hood, the 15th

This week's ride took me through the lovely 15th arrondisement, also known as my neighborhood. We technically live in the 15th, but we're on the far edge of it, and while I often wander farther into the 15th for errands and shopping, I haven't thoroughly explored it like I should.

Vélib' Vendredi: 16th Arrondisement

This fall has been absolutely wonderful here in Paris, so it makes it very easy to get out and explore this beautiful city. This week I biked through the classy 16th arrondisement, which is just on the other side of the river from us.

Vélib' Vendredi: High Line Style

Ok, so this week's Vélib´ Vendredi is kinda cheating because although I biked a lot this week, I failed at taking photos. Instead, I've got some photos of my walk on Paris's High Line.

Hiking the Dolomites

We just returned from a long weekend trip, which has climbed to the top five of both of our lists for favorite trips to date. And yet, there's a part of me that doesn't want to rave too much about this trip. Why, you might ask? Well, aside for the stunning beauty which will be apparent below, this area is relatively undiscovered by the English-speaking world, and I kind of want to keep it that way. Although the Dolomites are in Italy, it feels more like Austria or Germany, and the area still retains a traditional feel, where German is the preferred language, and the dress and music is still traditional, and not for the sake of tourists.

Plus de Visiteurs!

Well, we've rounded out another round of back-to-back visitors this month. As far as we know, this is our last set, but don't let that stop you from making plans to visit. We welcome visitors anytime!

Vélib' Vendredi 2

This week's Velib' Vendredi is a bit of a random one. My original plan was to stay in the area around the Pont de l'Alma and Grand Palais, but turns out, I went a little farther than planned! And if those look like fall colors to you, you'd be right because it seems the trees are a bit confused this year with our pretty much non-existent summer.

Vélib' Vendredi

A new series...Vélib´ Vendredi! Vélib´ is the shared public bike system in Paris, and I've made it my goal to bike 'just because' at least once a week in a different area of the city. Vélib´ Vendredi (Friday) will include photos from said bike ride and highlight the beauty of this city.

Rock en Seine & Paris

This weekend was Paris's annual music festival, which draws 100,000+ visitors from all over. We missed it last year because of our cruise, so this year we made sure to buy tickets for one night.

Apparently, Bordeaux is filled with wine and laughter

This past weekend rounded out the last of the holiday weekends this summer, so we hit the road with our friends, Skee and Michelle, to the Bordeaux wine area in southwestern France.  It was a fabulous weekend filled with laughter to the point of tears, beautiful villages, great friends, and, bien sur, lots of wine.

Norway in a Nutshell, Part 2

Our wonderful week in Norway continues!  {Part 1 here}

Norway in a Nutshell, Part 1

Before we left on this trip, many people asked "why Norway?"  For whatever reason this is not a popular destination for young travelers, but I was so excited having seen pictures from my parents' and grandparents' trips and because of my Norwegian heritage. After our 8 day trip, I will be back and am convinced Norway should be added to everyone's bucket list, especially if you love natural beauty.

US Celebrations

We spent the last 10 days in the United States visiting family, friends, working (for Nick), and most importantly, celebrating weddings of two close friends!  It was a whirlwind of a trip, but so great to be able to see so many people, including friends we haven't had time to spend with in many years!

Quatorze Juillet 2014

Remember how I said Fete de la Musique was my favorite day in Paris?  Well look out, Fete!  I think I have a new favorite day weekend: Quatorze Juillet.  Commonly referred to as Bastille Day in the US, it is French independence day.  Although I loved last year's celebration, this one was even better!

MM Vingt: S-s-summertime, summertime {happiness}

Last summer was a little strange because there was no clear distinction between my normal life and summer life.  As a teacher, that utter joy you feel on your first day of summer is something I always looked forward to.  So, this year, although not quite the same as my teaching days, I once again got to experience what the excitement of summer feels like again.  My daily French classes and after-school English classes that I taught ended within the last two weeks, so it's freedom! :)  And to paraphrase Lana Del Ray, it's been a s-s-summertime, summertime of happiness (not sadness!)

So what have I/we been up to?  Nick's mostly been in Africa working offshore 16-18 hours a day.  He's having fun {more on that later}, and so I am back in Paris.

While the Boys are Away, the Girls Will Play--In Normandy!

Nick has been in Africa (well, on a boat off the coast of Africa) for over a week and a half now, so when my friend Katie suggested a girls' trip since her hubby was out of town too, I eagerly jumped on board.  We decided on the Deauville/Trouville area of Normandy for its beaches and easy drive from Paris.

Paris has been rainy and cold recently, and the weather in Normandy wasn't much different, but we did get some sun and had a blast hanging out.  Also, how perfect are these flags we found?!?

MM Dix-Neuf: The French Pool Experience

It's been quite a while since I've done a Monday Minute, so here goes!

Last week we had a gorgeous warm, blue sky day, so knowing it was the last nice day forecast for quite a while my friends, Katie and Val, and I decided to hit up a French public swimming pool.

June Visitors Round 2

And so rounding out our visitors for the month (but not for the summer!), were my dear college friend, Andrea, and her husband, Tyler, and just a few days later my sweet friend Katie and her family.

That Time We Partied All Night Louis XVI & Marie Antoinette Style

That's right.  An all-night party (11:30pm till dawn).  At the Chateau of Versailles.  Period costumes and masks mandatory.  Basically, we partied like Louis XVI & Marie Antoinette would have partied if they lived in today's times.

June Visitors Round 1

In addition to being a busy travel month, June is also a busy month for visitors for us.  We're not complaining though! :)  It's fun to be a tourist in your own city sometimes, and thanks to a visit from Mom and Dad, and Nick's cousin, Chris, and his girlfriend, Lindsay, we were able to do just that!

Biking in Burgundy

And for a third consecutive weekend we set off for another adventure (don't worry no more traveling until July now). This time, we headed to the Burgundy area of France with my parents. It was a perfect weather weekend for biking, wine, and relaxation.

We stayed in Beaune, which I thought was a quintessential French town. Although much less busy than I anticipated, prices were not the cheapest we have seen in France. We spent a lot of our time at our hotel relaxing in the garden.

Most disappointing about Beaune is that their landmark building, Hospices de Beaune, is not able to be seen unless you pay to enter. At least the other buildings are still pretty!

After checking out Beaune's weekly market on Saturday and stocking up on picnic essentials, as well as local honey and mustard to take home, we headed out for a pretty full day of biking. 

We took the bike route south of Beaune, which takes you through the vineyards and through several small villages. We opted not to stop at any small wineries along our biking route as most had fairly pricey tastings, but we still had a great time enjoying the scenery. 

This is not a path for the light of heart...after 20 miles including tons of intense hills and biking into strong winds on the way back, we were pretty exhausted when we arrived back in Beaune!

Not so exhausted though that we couldn't handle a wine tasting and tour back in Beaune. We opted for the Patriarche Domaine because of good reviews. And oh, what an experience it was!  The 16€ price seemed a bit hefty at first, but at the end I considered it a real deal (especially when one private winery can cost 8€ for one tasting).

We began by touring the caves and bearing a bit of history of the winery. It was pretty interesting because it was self guided so we were in the caves all by ourselves! I wondered how they made sure no one moved any of the bottles around since we walked right next to them all the time.

Then it came time for the tastings, which was also in the caves which made for a pretty awesome atmosphere. We were told we would be tasting 3 whites and 10 reds, but I think it ended up being 4 whites and probably 12 reds and 1 rose (I kinda lost count by the end!). Not only that, but we were given a little metal tasting dish to pour our own, so if there was one you liked you could pour a second tasting. (And at 30€ a bottle, this definitely happened a few times.) 

Despite the awesome experience (and I still would recommend this visit), I reaffirmed the conclusion I had already made from grocery store Burgundy wine I have bought in Paris: this wine region is not for us. Most of the red wines are watery, fruity, and without much character. We prefer more full-bodied wines, which are possible to find in Burgundy, they just cost 30€+ a bottle for anything remotely sparking my interest. Even the "lower end" red wines start at 12-15€. I much prefer my 5-7€ wines I can get from Bordeaux and Cotes du Rhone at the grocery store, thank you very much. 

On Sunday we drove through some more wine areas before checking out the Chateau Rochepot on our way back to Paris. We are all castled out, but it was still beautiful from the outside. 

No blog post can go without mention of the food we ate, as you probably know by now! :)  The first night we ate the local specialty bœuf bourgnionon, which was delicious. But the real highlight was Le Goret (which means piglet) and serves only pig dishes. The chef comes out and explains the 4-5 daily pork specials to each table, in French.  (These are both good signs of a good local restaurant, in my opinion!) The real treat was watching the chef hack off your huge chunks of meat in the kitchen. 

No joke. HUGE chunks of pork...I'm not even sure how we paid enough money to cover the cost the chef paid for the pork at the butcher.  (Our meals were very reasonably priced.) The sauces and salads were to die for and we all walked out stuffed!  A definite visit if you're in the area...the chef is the only one cooking so they have very limited seating (book ahead if you can!)

Even Nick was in awe of how much pork he got!

All in all a great weekend and I'm glad we went. The biking is great and so peaceful and beautiful. Even though I'm not a huge fan of the wine, the area is worth a trip just for the biking in my opinion.  See all of our pictures here.

**Tips:  Stay at La Villa Fleurie. Much cheaper than anything inside the town walls but it's a short 5 minute walk to the old town. Eat at Le Goret. Hands down. Biking through the vineyards..you can't go wrong anywhere.